编织类型和纬纱密度对精纺毛织物起毛起球的影响外文翻译资料

 2022-11-27 13:59:48

Weft weave type and density of worsted fabric pilling impact

Farshad Lohrasbi, Jalal Mokhtari Ghahi, M. E. Yazdanshenas

Islamic Azad University

Abstract: The textile pilling one of the most significant area of ​​the ball, being investigated by many researchers, such as Cook. In this study, we analyzed several samples of worsted fabric pilling: 55% wool / 45% polyester in different weft density and weave type friction test results obtained using the Martindale test and counting number of pilling on the fabric surface. The results showed that the surface of the fabric in the warp and weft interwoven, the more and less pilling formation; warp or a number far greater than can be concluded that, in some cases, less pilling form on the surface of the ball when the number (ie, latitude and longitude weft interwoven yarn less), the warp density is much larger than the weft density. However, in certain fabrics, weft density increase causes the surface of the fabric to form a small reduction in the number of balls.

Key words: worsted fabric; woven type; Density; pilling.

preface:

Pilling on textile and clothing manufacturers but also for the user is not only an important issue. Pilling significantly decreased shedding process makes fabric quality also make the users comfort have a negative impact.

Psilocine yarn in terms of the performance characteristics of many woven worsted fabric is quite sufficient comparable two ply yarn, when its production process to provide the best conditions. This fabric pilling and abrasion resistance is formed almost at the same level, and have similar appearance.

In addition to clothing design species diversity, durability is an important factor. So like this one pilling technical parameters, which will affect the durability it is one of the key issues of the apparel industry.

Pilling is a fabric defect, which is a small ball or interfere with the fiber surface of the fabric fibers and one or more fiber contact thereof.

Pilling often represents a serious flaw in the fabric or garment. It is not only the appearance of the fabric and product handling damage, it also has the structure of the fibers from the yarn transfer rate accelerating effect, thereby substantially reducing the service life.

In the formation of pellets, the fiber-entangled fabric surface to form a number of abnormalities.

Pellets initiation and development follow a well-established pattern, which has six stages:

1. Establishment of a local region of high density fluff,

2. The formation of a loose tangle of development in this region,

3. The ball tightening loose fibers form a large spherical mass,

4. Pull anchor fiber to form a separate, moving the ball,

5. Due to the location of the ball so that the transfer of some of the fibers break,

6. The rest of the fiber breakage and a ball falling off.

Development of miniature ball is covered by the first three steps, which means that the first entangled area.

Fluff shown in Figure 1 to develop into a small ball.

1) 2) 3) 4)

Figure 1. Step pilling formation [5];

1) hair, 2) loose entanglement, 3) from the ball (tight entanglement), 4) helically wound.

Gintis and Mead shows that increasing the strength and flexibility of synthetic fibers can reduce the rate of small-ball wear off so the ball has a higher density and longer life. In addition, the tenacity and stage of development rigidity of fluff fibers 2--6, in such a manner, a relatively high toughness and low bending stiffness of the fibers to produce high-density fluff, pellets initial formation rate is also high.

Brand and Bohmfolk their pilling model assumptions, hair fiber pulled through the fabric surface friction or disappear, while Motoji and Tsujimoto consider fiber deformation beyond the yield point of the initial entanglement partly responsible, but did not provide any clear evidence proof pilling place may cause damage to the fiber.

Pilling by repeated friction, according to the combination of two phenomena: the emerging fabric surface, and at the same surface of the Nep persistence. And low flexural modulus fibers and low coefficient of friction phenomenon increases, while increasing the second fiber has a high tensile strength and high bending recovery. It is generally understood, pilling particularly high in those containing synthetic fibers in the fabric, such as polyamide fibers and polyester fibers.

Under the fibers within the yarn tension sufficient to overcome the frictional force, the pilling growth is limited, resulting in a small ball rolling process flow (Figure 2), pilling caused by an increase in the size and fiber bending cycle torsional stress is reduced.

Round starting off

Do not fall off from the roll

Table 1. Technical data of the sample

Sample No. weft yarn count (tex) type weaving weft density (weft / cm) warp density (warp / cm)

50/2 1 1/2 twill left to right 15 16 18.5 26 17.25

2 50/2 2/1 twill left to right 15 16 18.5 26 17.25

3 38.4 / 22/1 twill left to right 1/2 twill left to right 21,222,324 26.25

4 38.4 / 22/2 twill left to right 2122232427

5 25/2 satin 4/1 uarr; 2 28 29 30 31 40

25/2 6 1/2 twill Right to Left 2/1 twill left to right 2526272829 31.5

High twist factors and tight fabric structure results from the low volume, and limit the growth of small ball, and the fiber has a high tensile strength, the pilling more likely to be in the form of fixed residence on the fabric surface I will not wear off. The average length of the fabric surface protruding fibers will affect the small size of the ball.

Due to the increase of interwoven fabric and improved wear resistance it is understandable, because the interleaving increase (Fig. 3), the fabric becomes more compact, the friction between the fibers and yarns between increases.

Fig

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编织类型和纬纱密度对精纺毛织物起毛起球的影响

Farshad Lohrasbi, Jalal Mokhtari Ghahi,M. E. Yazdanshenas

Islamic Azad University

摘要:纺织品起毛起球最显著的区域之一,被调查许多研究者,如库克。在这项研究中,我们分析了几个样品的精纺面料的起毛起球: 55%羊毛/45%聚酯在不同的纬密和编织类型下.摩擦测试结果用马丁代尔测试获得和计数织物表面上的起球数。结果表明,经纬纱在织物表面交织越多,起球形成越少;或一个可以得出结论,在某些情况下,少起毛起球的表面上的形式时经纱数远大于纬纱数(即经纬纱交织较少),是的经密远远大于纬密。但在某些织物,纬密增加会使织物表面形成小球数减少。

关键词:精纺织物;编织类型;经纬密度;起毛起球。

导言:

起毛起球不仅对纺织和衣服制造商还为用户都是一个重要的问题。起毛起球的脱落过程会使面料质量的显着下降也会使用户的舒适度产生负面影响。

赛洛纺纱线在许多梭织精纺面料的性能特点方面是相当足够媲美两合股纱线的,当其生产过程中提供最佳条件。这种织物抗起毛起球性和耐磨性几乎在同一水平形成,并有近似的的外观。

除了服装设计的种类多样性,耐用性也是一个重要因素。因此像起毛起球这一个技术参数,这会影响耐久性,是服装行业的关键问题之一。

起毛起球是织物疵点,这是小纤维球或干预纤维与织物表面一根或更多的纤维接触而组成的。

起毛起球往往代表着在织物或服装的一个严重缺陷。它不仅对织物外观和处理的产品有损害,它也有使纤维从纱线结构中转移速率加速效果,从而实质性降低使用寿命。

在小球的形成过程中,纤维缠结使织物表面形成一些畸形。

小球萌生和发展遵循一套行之有效的模式,它有六个阶段:

1.建立一个绒毛密度高的局部区域,

2.在这一区域发展形成一个松散的纠缠,

3.松散的纤维球紧缩形成大量的球形肿块,

4.拉锚纤维,形成一个独立的,移动的小球,

5.由于小球位置转移使某些纤维断裂,

6.其余纤维的断裂和小球的脱落。

微型小球的发展是由前三个步骤覆盖,这意味着第一个纠缠区。

如图1所示的绒毛发展成小球。

1) 2) 3) 4)

图1.起毛起球形成的步骤[5];

1)绒毛,2)宽松的纠缠,3)起球(紧纠缠),4)螺旋缠绕。

Gintis和Mead表明,增加合成纤维的强度和弯曲性可降低小球磨损脱落率使小球有更高的密度和更长的生命。此外,纤维的坚韧和刚性影响绒毛的发展阶段2 – 6,以这样一种方式,具有相对较高的韧性和抗弯刚度低的纤维产生绒毛密度高,小球初步形成速率也高。

Brand和Bohmfolk在他们起毛起球的模型中假设,绒毛纤维通过织物表面摩擦或拉出而消失,而Motoji和Tsujimoto考虑纤维变形超过屈服点对初始纠缠负有部分责任,但没有提供任何明确的证据证明起毛起球的地方会引起纤维损伤。

起毛起球是由反复摩擦产生的,根据两个组合的现象:新兴纤维织物表面,并在同一表面形成的棉结的持久性。与低弯曲模量纤维和低摩擦系数的现象增加,而第二个增加纤维具有较高的拉伸强度和弯曲恢复高。一般的理解是,起毛起球在那些含有合成纤维的织物中特别高,如聚酰胺纤维和聚酯纤维。

纤维的拉力不足以克服内纱线的摩擦力的情况下,起毛起球的增长受到限制,卷起的过程导致小球流动化(图2),起毛起球的增加引起循环弯曲规模和纤维的扭转应力减小。

起卷脱落

起卷不脱落

表1.样品的技术数据

样品编号 经纬纱的数(tex) 织造类型 纬密(纬纱/cm) 经密(经纱/cm)

1 50/2 1/ 2斜纹左到右 15 16 17.25 18.5 26

2 50/2 2/ 1斜纹左到右 15 16 17.25 18.5 26

3 38.4/2 2/ 1斜纹左到右 1/ 2斜纹左到右 21 22 23 24 26.25

4 38.4/2 2/ 2斜纹左到右 21 22 23 24 27

5 25/2 缎面4/ 1uarr;2 28 29 30 31 40

6 25/2 1/ 2斜纹右到左 2/ 1斜纹左到右 25 26 27 28 29 31.5

高捻因素和紧密的织物结构导致起卷率低,并限制小球的增长,且对具有高拉伸强度的纤维来说,起毛起球的形式更有可能成为不动停留在织物表面上而不会穿脱落。织物表面伸出的纤维的平均长度会影响小球的大小。

由于面料交织的增加而改进耐磨损是可以理解的,因为交织增加(图3),面料变得更紧凑,纤维之间和纱线之间的摩擦增加。

图三

由于在编织结构的变化,织物性能的计算的变化如(图4)所示。在耐磨性方面,平纹是最好的,2/1斜纹比2/2、3/1或者4/1斜纹的好。与其他编织类型相比平纹布具有最高的剪切刚度。这些趋势作为常识而达成一致的意见,更多的纱线纱交错编织有较小编织浮长。

精纺面料起毛起球是一个严重的问题,并吸引客户,制造商和研究人员的注意。面料参数的影响,包括编织型和起毛起球精纺面料经纬密度在这项工作中,利用统计分析方法进行了调查。

实验:

在这项研究中,我们用不同的经纬纱支,编织类型和纬纱密度,伊朗的美利奴羊毛和Motahhari公司提供的45%精纺Wool/55%涤纶织物。样品的详细规格列于表1。必须指出,纤维的过程和纺纱系统是完全一样的的。

每个样品处理4种不同的纬纱密度,除了样品中没有。6,有5个不同的纬纱密度。样本的大小是90 times;150厘米。我们准备了3件,每个样品,背面与正面,经纬方向显着。

为了确保测试的随机性,我们选择了来自不同地方的织物表面样本。必须指出的是,在马丁代尔测试,两件样品必须在相互充分接触。

测试在标准条件下(65%RH和20℃)。一件样品的起毛起球测试,毡机即头低,较小的一块进行调整,以本机摇头。

测试周期分别设置在125,500,750,1000,1500和2000年根据ISO12945-2000。每个测试运行后,药丸的数量计数放大镜荧光灯下水平。必须指出,应在5至15度,织物表面的角度集光,样品和眼睛之间的距离也必须在30至50厘米之间。每个样本的药片数量的平均值记录

原料规格:

处理由伊朗美利奴羊毛公司50 / 2(TEX)纱支羊毛纤维的规格列于表2。聚酯纤维的技术数据也列于表3。

纤维技术处理38.4 TEX/2和25 / 2 TEX纱的支数由Motahhari公司的数据还可以看出,在表4,5和6。

结论:

1.经纱和纬纱密度影响的起毛起球精纺面料。

2.织类型与纬纱交错warpyarn也影响了精纺面料的起毛起球。然而,当经线密度远远比纬,经线密度精纺起毛起球效果比编织类型

面料。

3.在编织,只要更多的经纱和纬纱在织物表面交错在一起,丸的变化是与纬纱密度增加。

4.外,根据回归方程和图表的统计调查,说明药片的数量在更多的样本(1,2,4和5)减少经纬密度增加时。

参考文献:

1. Jasinka I.; Fibres amp; Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 17, No. 2 (73), 2009, pp. 55-58.

2. Kalaoglu F., Onder E.; “Pilling and abrasion performance of worsted fabrics from different yarns” International. Text. Bulletin., April 2003.

3. Lucas J. M., Miguel R. A. L., Carvalho M. D. L., Manich A. M.; “Fabric Design Considering the Optimisation of Pilling Formation” Magic World of TEXT., October 2004.

4. Cooke W. D.; J. Text. Inst., No. 1, 1982.

5. Goktepe O.; Textile. Res. J., 2002(72), pp. 625-630.

6. Cooke W. D.; J. Text. Inst., No. 3, 1983.

7. Fan J., Hunter L.; Textile. Res. J., October, 1998(68), pp: 763-771.

8. ISO 12945 “Part II: Modified Martindale method”4130-2, 1st Revision. Mar, 2002.

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